Undoubtedly, wild boar hunting is one of the most widespread types of big game in our country, and it seems to be tailor-made to be carried out with the bow, a perfect communion that produces a powerful addiction.
It is not easy to discipline, and if we equate it to hunting with a weapon, it has its drawbacks, but if we devote the time it takes, it is very successful and satisfying.
This article is focused on personal perceptions and experiences and does not intend anything but to introduce the amateur to this exciting modality.
For this, after the enigmatic wild boars, we will see the various aspects and measures required to be able to successfully conclude our adventure.
Prepare the stance well
This article is focused on personal perceptions and experiences and does not intend anything but to introduce the amateur to this exciting modality.
For this, after the enigmatic wild boars, we will see the various aspects and measures required to be able to successfully conclude our adventure.
Without a doubt, the training of the positions is one of the most significant parts of this quest, and one of the most enjoyable for me.
It is a good starting point to search for moves, baths or places of affection.
The use of feeders is the most common .
First of all, for this form of practice, you must find out about the hunting laws in place.
We must note that there is no exemption from compliance due to a misunderstanding of the rules.
Artificial attractants are also absolutely banned from being used .
Hunting within 50 meters of the feeding grounds, for example, is prohibited; on the other hand, there is no minimum distance to get into pools, trails or crops.
Absurd or not, whether it is, it is. That said, let’s talk about the feedlots. You can put almost anything on them in order to fatten the wild boars .
And they’re omnivorous and they’re very gluttonous. Priming them with corn, almonds, acorns… is the most popular.
Once the feedlot is discovered by the animals, it is important to take care of it and regularly fatten it.
A decent alternative is to put in an automatic feeder or the usual leaky drum full of corn if you can’t go almost every day.
The first thing to consider is where the wild boar will enter the feedlot, where I will enter the stall, and the trend of the air in the field, as I have said previously.
It is, in theory, easy to decide when “presumably” wild boars join.
I say possibly because they’re going to confuse us more than once, entering from where we don’t expect them. The trails, the natural moves, must be observed well. Placing crossed branches or herbs in those steps is a good trick to know where they enter and, once they start entering the feedlot, decide the most loving steps. We will see whether they are joining or leaving, depending on how they split the divisions.
By reading the stones, another way to assess where they join the feedlot is. Placing food (corn, almonds…) and covering it with stones is one of the most popular methods of preparing feedlots.
They normally form a circle with these stones once the animals join, while they drive them away in search of the food underneath .
Ok, generally, one side of the circumference is often without stones, an unclosed circumference, more like a wide U.
This means that through the open area the animals enter. This is not always clear, however.
Large males appear to be very wary of feeders and shooting them is difficult.
In the steps or baths they use, another choice is to stand. The use of the photo-trapping camera is a great aid in monitoring these specimens.
In terms of weapon positions, the planning of a place to hunt with a bow varies fundamentally in two respects:
1.- The distance to shoot.
2.- The space we need for the arch to open.
The optimal distance to shoot at night with a bow should not be greater than 20 meters.
A very accurate weapon is a well-calibrated bow with a skilled archer, being powerful from several meters away… But things change at night.
The distances from our environment, not only the distance to the landfill but also the distances within our field of vision, are important to monitor.
I typically take different measurements with a rangefinder of various fixed elements in my setting, such as trees, bushes, stones, once I get to a new location.
In order to be able to easily assess the shooting distance in the event that any animal within my field of vision is shocked.
The best thing is to shoot from a high position wherever possible. The treestands are there for this.
Nothing more than a chair adapted to be mounted on a tree is a treestand. As a rule, they have a forum and a seat. As a backup, the trunk of the tree itself will function. The installation is relatively simple and the sensations and breathtaking vistas are relatively simple.
Health is important in these types of positions, and it is more than desirable to use a brace since there are positions that are put at a great height .
The most popular thing is to position a rope on the saddle so that we can lift the bow without problems until we are put on top.
We may position either threadable steps or ladders that are attached to the trunk and that do not harm it at all in order to ascend the treestand.
There are endangered tree species, so be cautious when positioning the steps and cutting branches!
Another choice is to be at the level of the ground.
There are very similar portable stalls to a camping tent called blinds.
Especially for rainy days, these blinds are very practical, as we will be completely isolated and protected from inclement weather.
Typically, the interior is large enough to easily hold the bow and they have many pockets to grab.
With branches, you can also make your own blind or simply stick to the vegetation cover. The main thing is that it is not distinguishable from your silhouette.
A decent chair will be appreciated for sitting on the concrete.
It has to be comfortable, with a backrest and no armrests, at least on the side where the shooting is going to take place.
Another significant characteristic is that it is not noisy… And it’s all the easier if it has a swivel foundation.
If you actually decide, you’re going to need … Let’s begin by referring to the material that is required with a bow to wait for the wild boar.
We’re going to need a bow, arrows and a set of “basic” accessories, obviously. Ignorance of the material is one of the key problems faced by a person who wants to start in this universe.
The technicalities associated with archery sometimes do nothing more than confusing the future archer.
For this, without going too far into the more theoretical and technical portion, we will summarize the elements that are necessary for the waiting. Take note of … Oh, good luck.
- Our bow must always be tuned to the hunting tips we are going to use. Not every hunting tip flies the same.
- Regularly check the arch hardware. On the pulleys, rope stops and other accessories, the bow has tiny screws. The screws will loosen due to the vibrations that are produced with each shot, which could cause us several problems. On all those that are not used for regular modifications, such as those that regulate the openings in the pulleys, a reasonable suggestion is to apply’ screw fixers’.
- Before going to the stall, mentally evaluate what you’d do while hunting. This will keep things from being overlooked by us. It is not going to be the first time we arrive at the post and remember, for instance, that we are missing the trigger.
- Let’s walk slowly to stop sweating if we bundle up before arriving at the hunting ground since the sweat will cool down when we stand up.
Prior to hunting, fire a few arrows to ensure that all is in place.
Also, check the brightness of the flashlight and viewfinder. Bear extra batteries, flashlights and cell phones at all times.
For hunting!
We’ve got it set now. Our bow is tuned to the millimeter and without any difficulty, we could reach an apple from 30 meters away.
We also have the right clothing, a lovely stall, and plenty of wild boars visiting it.
It’s evening and you’re on your way to the post office.
You park your car a little far away, and it’s a nice walk in the field before the hunt. In order to not miss something, you open the trunk and take the junk, doing a mental examination.
All right, I’ve got everything packed. Since you don’t want to take needless chances, you arrive at a treestand and hook the harness to the tree.
The bow and backpack are lifted. You put a backpack on a branch, another quiver, and you put an arrow in the bow. In your lap, you change the trigger and breathe deeply…
You are already hunting. A chill flows through your body at that very moment.
Just as on the first day, you are excited. The chase will lose all sense when you stop feeling this.
Now it just depends on you and the fortune of the goddess that you successfully finish the night. Good luck to everyone on the field!
He rests arrows
If they are dropping or set, the arrow rest must be of the complete capture type, i.e., they hold the arrow in the arrow rest regardless of the bow location.
This will prevent the arrow from dropping from the rest of the arrow and from reaching the body of the bow, causing a loud click to announce our presence.
I can tell you that when you have the boar nearly in place, this will almost always happen.
Bow and accessories
Instead of a conventional bow, I suggest using a pulley or compound bow if you are not very experienced as an archer.
More than anything, because in similar training environments, the efficiency and accuracy of these bows are greater than those of conventional bows.
While it sounds contradictory, the use of the conventional bow is the development of the hunter who strives to transcend himself and completely dive into the’ purest’ bow hunting.
A short bow is perfect for waiting. The axle to axle is fine between 28′ and 32.’
And if you have a fismelle (brace height), it would be much easier to be able to pull between 7″ and 8″ while we are warm and our clothes are very voluminous.
The fismelle is the gap between the cord and the inside of the hilt of the bow. Bowhunting requires, per statute, at least 45 pounds of strength.
The ideal thing is to fire with a force that helps us to easily open the bow.
The more the merrier, but we will not be fascinated with this matter either.
I think it’s more than adequate for 60 pounds.
The viewer’s significance
Since the waits are essentially at night, the bow requires a visor with light to illuminate the pins.
The pins are the viewers’ references or crosshairs and are generally produced with a fiber optic terminal.
Those with a single pin are suitable for me, because they are usually thrown into feedlots, baths or fixed distance measures.
Multi-pin visors are very functional, but if we’re only going to use the bow for waiting, I see the use of a single pin is more acceptable, as it prevents confusion.
These scopes have a scale that can be set at various distances to fire.
We can adjust the lighting so that only the first pin lights up if we use a viewfinder with multiple pins.
Stabilizer
A stabilizer still helps, but you don’t need a very long and bulky one for this mode, it’ll be more than enough from 3 “to 9”.
Moreover, at the moment of shooting, it can be used as a help to position the spotlight, lighting the pig.
More than advised, the flashlight
Another significant matter is the flashlight. There are several flashlights suitable for this purpose on the market.
There are currently tiny flashlights that have a large luminous flux, showing the amount of visible light produced by the flashlight.
They calculate this flux in lumens. The more lumens there are in the spotlight, the more light it emits.
A flashlight with 1,000 lumens and a focused light flow would be more than adequate to achieve a greater range.
As far as possible, we can avoid white light because the animals suffer less from this kind of light.
It would be ideal to have a red or green light filter.
A remote button attached to the flashlight by a cord switches the flashlight on.
To control it with the hand that holds the bow, this push-button must be located on the body of the bow.
When you turn on the light, there are wild boars that handle light very well and some that place their feet in the dust.
These specimens may have had poor experiences in the past and it won’t be the first time they’ve been faced with a wait.
A good way to see how the animal responds to the light is, until we hear movement, to make a blast.
We’ll open the bow and relight just enough to fire if the animal is folding.
The trigger
It is a device attached to the hand or wrist that, when the bow is open, will allow us to release the string cleanly and safely.
It’s a kind of clamp that we’re going to open the bow with, and we’re going to loosen the bowstring using a trigger until prepared.
This will help us to do this release in a cleaner and more reliable way than with our fingers if we did it.
The most common way to “hook” the trigger to the string is by making a small loop called a loop on the bowstring.
It is a particular material and not just some kind of rope is going to do it. It’s very easy to install … And her knot’s great resistance seems unbelievable.
There are several trigger models: wrist, side, stress, even special waiting models, which will always be the most recommended ones.
But in order to get you started, a simple wrist trigger will be more than enough.
Arrows and tips
The arrows and hunting tips to use are another topic that several lines could be written about due to the variety and complexity of the subject.
The use of carbon tubes and non-mechanical fixed tips is recommended for the waiting period.
We can use almost every tip on the market successfully with a powerful, quick and well-adjusted bow.
The only condition required is that they are durable and perfectly sharp. We still have to practice and adapt our bow to the hunting tips we will use.
Not all tips for hunting fly the same and can drift. The best thing is that, in a specialized establishment, they advise us.
It is necessary to choose arrows and they must conform to the characteristics of the bow.
That is, for all bows, not all arrows are true.
Arrow selection depends on the strength, the opening of the bow and the weight of the point.
Arrows are categorized according to their toughness or spine.
Clothes and additions
As their names mean, waiting or waiting for consists of waiting for an animal to pass through a certain area.
We need to be thermally relaxed and in a suitable place for this purpose. Being hot or cold will trigger our wait to end earlier than desired.
By removing fabrics, heat can be overcome, but cold is more difficult.
Today, advanced clothing centered on hunting is available and built on a very efficient three-layer system.
There are also several brands now introducing clothing lines specifically made for archery hunting.
Our purpose will be to keep your body warm and dry.
Swallowing must be promoted in order to keep it dry, i.e., clothing must allow sweat to escape from our skin.
And, on the other hand, it seeks to shield the body from bad weather (rain, cold, wind, etc.), because our clothes have to prevent these elements from entering.
Without needing to be lined like an onion, the layer system helps the body to remain dry and covered as we conduct our operation.
Each of the layers must therefore have a different purpose, which could be grouped essentially into:
First layer: It keeps us dry with the use of breathable fabrics.
-The second layer: This keeps us warm.
-Third layer: Protects us from rain and air, allowing us to sweat. This is done due, among other things, to well-known membrane patents, such as Gore-tex or Vapourflex.
Critical points are the head, hands and feet, so it is important to keep them warm.
Unique goods with a high degree of insulation (materials that minimize the rate of heat transfer) are available on the market, such as boots, hand warmers, ski masks, etc.
And a variety of additional accessories.
The best thing is to place the last layers near the post, because if we walk or drive a lot, we’re going to sweat with all the clothing.
Some clothes have odor regulation, which reduces our body odor significantly, but without completely removing it. While not 100 percent infallible, they are a great help.
Holding hunting clothes in a waterproof bag along with some vegetation in the area is advisable, so that it takes on the scent.
Our greatest ally would be high positions and awareness of air trends in the hunting field.
The problem of camouflage is contentious and intimate.
Based on lived experiences or simply on purely aesthetic standards, each one has its preferences.
Dark colors and various camouflage patterns would do the job for the waiting times.
There is no very good eyesight for the wild boar, but it has a good visual memory and can detect any change in its climate. It’s even more so if it’s near a feedlot.
In my understanding, the most significant thing is that our silhouette is not differentiated, always putting ourselves behind in areas where we have coverage so that we do not stand out.
Any movement inside the field of vision of the boar will ruin our wait.
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