While auto-leveling is a huge time saver for 3D printing and the plug-and-print ease of use makes this a smart choice, the Geeetech Mizar S 3D printer experience is hampered by a number of drawbacks, manufacturing issues and weird design choices.
- automatic leveling
- Print PLA, PETG, ABS, TPU and more
- Filament detection sensor
- double gear extruder
- print light
- Quick and easy belt adjustment.
- Compatible with Windows, macOS, Linux
- Build Volume: 255x255x260mm
- Printing speed: 10~150mm/s, 60~80mm/s recommended
- Used materials: PLA, ABS, PETG, silk PLA, wood polymer
- Brand: GEEETECH
- easy to assemble
- Connect and print
- Amazingly accurate auto leveling
- Does not include software contrary to the manual
- Filament detection did not work
- Touch screen damaged by air bubbles
- Adhesion is a problem, before and after printing
- The position of the USB port is inconvenient
GEEETECH Mizar S Auto Leveling 3D Printer
Consumer 3D printers have been around for over a decade, with each generation improving on the last. One of the largest 3D printer manufacturers, Geeetech, recently released the Mizar S, a 3D printer with auto-leveling and other features introduced in response to user feedback.
But how do these fixes work in practice? At around $400, is the Geeetech Mizar S a 3D printer you should consider, or are the workarounds just creating more problems?
My first 3D printer
At this point, it should be noted that this is my first 3D printer. I don’t completely agree with the concept as I have used 3D printing services in the past. I also have less experience with plastic filaments and hot ends thanks to 3D printer pens, a very different type of product but one that at least provides insight into the shortcomings of PLA, ABS, and similar materials.
And to be honest, I’ve seen too many 3D printing videos not to have one, so here we go…
Why choose the Geeetech Mizar S?
Whether you’re new to 3D printers or a veteran, Geeetech Mizar S has several key features worth having, including the auto-leveling bed.
The aluminum heated bed has a magnetic layer and a Mylar-coated removable steel sheet to help adhere and remove printed items. Supposedly, anyway; we didn’t have much luck. The system also features power-off protection for interruptions, a filament detection sensor for broken or exhausted filaments, and a dual-gear extruder for smoother printing. Meanwhile, the strap can be easily adjusted, and an LED next to the print nozzle can be enabled for clearer observation printing.
Inside, a silent 32-bit motherboard is cooled by fans, and printing is controlled via the “responsive” touchscreen.
Geeetech Mizar S Device Specification
A fused deposition modeling (FDM) printer with a layer thickness of 0.1 to 0.2 millimeters, the Geeetech Mizar S has a build platform volume of 255 x 255 x 260 mm and can print with PLA, ABS , PETG, Silk PLA, Wood Polymer, and more.
Positioning is accurate in the X and Y axes to 0.011mm and in the Z axis to 0.0025mm. Printing accuracy is 0.1mm, with a recommended speed of 60-80mm/s (although 10-150mm/s is possible).
Weighing 11 kg and measuring 362 (width) x 377 (length) x 653 (height) mm, the Geeetech Mizar S has a single TF card slot, a USB port and works at a maximum of 360°. w. Be sure to check that the correct AC voltage is set before plugging it in.
What you get with the Geeetech Mizar S
When you unbox the Geeetech Mizar S, you will find a gantry kit, the main base with attached heated bed, a USB type A cable, power cord, shovel/scraper, spare Teflon tube for the filament, cable ties, a drive of filament holder for mounting, a tool kit, two spare nozzles, microSD card with STL files and manuals, a bag of screws, belt tensioners, the Y-axis limit switch, and some test filaments. There is also a printed user manual.
All this is packed in a single box, which measures 522 (L) x 482 (W) x 310 (H) mm. It is not portable and you need to set up the printer where you want to use it. Moving it afterwards is not a good idea, certainly not regularly. Ideally, choose a location that is not subject to gusty winds and drafts, as small variations in ambient temperature can affect print bed adhesion.
For testing, we also received two spools of PLA, black and white.
Geeetech Mizar S setup and assembly
Much of this 3D printer is pre-assembled. Well packaged and safe in the box, all you need to do is connect the Z-axis gantry, connect some cables, and attach the filament spool holder to the top. This last component is temperamental at best: the T-nuts are hard to get hold of on the gantry at the top of the printer.
I made the mistake of incorrectly connecting the other component, the Y-stop sensor. I ship in two pieces, I attached only one, with the circuit side facing down, where the cap piece should have been attached.
Unsurprisingly, this resulted in a problem: the build platform was thrown backwards with each auto-leveling attempt. Fortunately, this was resolved by properly assembling the sensor to cover the bare circuit.
Geeetech Mizar S Touchscreen User Interface
Control over the Geeetech Mizar S is via a touch screen, which presents all the options you need to move, repair, and start prints. If you have used a 3D printer before, you will probably recognize the user interface, which is common to this type of device.
One problem with the review device: the top layer of the touch screen was full of air bubbles. This was after removing the protective film and it appears to be between the screen and the touch sensitive layer. A less common problem these days than it used to be, it gives the touchscreen a cheap feel.
Not good. Also, this “sensitive” touch screen (according to the Geeetech website) is completely unresponsive, no doubt due to air bubbles.
While the touch screen is mounted on the right side of the front of the printer, the USB port and MicroSD (TF card) slot are located on the left. This seems convenient enough until you consider the idea of having a USB cable sticking out of the front of such a large computer. Better planning could have placed the port on the side of the printer, or even in the back, next to the power connector.
Some initial problems with the Geeetech Mizar S
Overall, the Geeetech Mizar S is a decent 3D printer with some smart features. But it fails in a couple of key areas where it really shouldn’t.
For starters, there is no software included, despite advice to the contrary in the instruction manual. Although the microSD card includes many manuals and STL files to work with, I had to install Ultimaker Cura. Unfortunately, Cura does not have a profile for the Mizar S at this stage, which meant risking a profile for a different Geeetech 3D printer.
When printing, the hotbed manages to heat up, but adhesion to the magnetic sheet is a problem, requiring the age-old solution of some glue or tape. But this, even when combined with printing a brim or raft, is not guaranteed to solve adhesion problems. And while the printer is quiet, of course it does radiate a bit of heat.
Finally, the filament detection sensor, touted as being able to “detect abnormal conditions such as a broken or exhausted filament,” failed to detect both. Printing was not automatically suspended, and in fact that whole scenario led to hours of troubleshooting, trying to determine the location of a blockage in the filament loading system, swapping out the replacement filament tube, and generally disappointing.
Contrary to the list of features, the “cooled” print bed is not easier to remove printed items like a still warm bed. This was the case whether or not glue was used, suggesting that Mylar retains printed items longer than expected.
Printing with Geeetech Mizar S
You can’t expect the first print from any device (plastic or ink) to be successful. However, Geeetech Mizar S has adjusted my expectations considerably.
Initial impressions revealed adhesion issues, something I was generally aware of but previously unaware of the degree to which it could be a problem.
During testing, the only prints that worked as intended were larger examples that printed slowly, like the 3Dbenchy and the rocket ship. Weight and speed certainly played a role here. One of the attempts, a small Eiffel Tower, repeatedly failed, despite various settings adjustments. I can only assume that this design was either too small or extruded too quickly. One of the shortcomings of not having a dedicated Cura profile, perhaps? It’s worth noting that the included tool kit includes small wrenches that didn’t actually fit anything on the printer. When it came to replacing the extruder nozzle, I had to search my own toolbox. Meanwhile, the included file is inadequate to correct inaccuracies.
In general, the printer prints with a decent thickness of 0.1mm. In testing, I’ve seen both ends of the scale of quality that can be achieved with the Geeetech Mizar S. Unsurprisingly, the slower the print, the better.
Can you love a 3D printer?
Taken at face value, this is a good 3D printer, although it misses out on key features and falls short of the others.
For example, you can only print one filament at a time. While the pause feature should help with this, I wouldn’t rely on it after the filament has broken and the (enabled) sensor doesn’t detect any issues. Then there is the issue of air bubbles with the touch screen, making reading difficult, and the temperamental spool holder.
While this 3D printer may be a slightly specialized piece of kit, so is a soldering iron, portable power station, or set of high-end speakers. If you had the experience I had with the Geeetech Mizar S with any of those devices, you’d run a mile.
Against this background, the Geeetech Mizar S greatly disappoints. My problems with filament feeding, lack of software, lack of a dedicated profile for Cura (and nothing available on the Geeetech website), and wrenches that don’t fit any of the nuts and bolts have all conspired to sour the experience.
However, the self-leveling bed is a huge time saver, Linux compatibility is a big plus, and it has a nice plug-and-print aspect. I’m never going to love the Geeetech Mizar S, but it’s nice to have around.